It doesn't matter if you're rich or poor
or somewhere in between.
Your feet are gonna hurt if your boots don't fit.
What's more, your feelings might hurt
if they're unattractive.
Well Rob Wilds met a craftsman in Brentwood
who can handle both issues.
His name is Wes Shugart, and he hand-makes boots
that look as good as they feel.
- [Rob] Wes Shugart was a very successful builder
who had an issue that led to a life change.
- [Wes] I quit drinkin', and I needed a hobby.
And so, sittin' there lookin' around, love shoes.
Decided to learn to make cowboy boots.
Love cowboy boots the most.
Grew up on a farm in the North Georgia mountains.
So I went out West and learned to make boots
from a third-generation bootmaker
by the name of Deana McGuffin.
- [Rob] She is one of a handful of women bootmakers
whose boots are recognized
as being functional and beautiful.
Just what Wes wanted to do.
- I'm making something that's comfortable,
something that's long-lasting,
that people can either wear to work every day,
whether you're sittin' behind a desk,
or, you know, you're ridin' horses every day.
Somebody once told me the most important things
that you should have is a good mattress
and a good pair of boots,
because it's the first thing
you think about when you wake up,
it's the last thing you think about when you go to sleep,
is your foot and your back.
- [Rob] And so everyone who buys boots from Wes
winds up right here where I am:
getting their feet measured.
- All right, what I wanna do is I'm gonna place this down.
- All right.
- Fit is subjective.
Everybody believes that this is the way
I like my boots to fit,
so you have to get to know that person
and see what their style is, what they feel is comfortable,
and while you're measuring their feet,
you're gettin' their personality,
because you're fixin' to lead them
through the process of a one-of-a-kind boot.
Foot straight up.
- [Rob] All right.
- There we go, drop her down.
- [Rob] All right.
- There you go.
- This is kind of a personal, sort of intimate experience,
to have somebody massage your feet.
- Well, yeah, I wouldn't call it massagin', I'd--
- Sorry about that.
- No, no, that is not massagin'.
- It felt good, so--
- Yes, I'm feelin' your feet.
I'm seein' what your issues are.
- [Rob] After the measuring is finished,
Wes and the boot buyer settle on a design.
Comfortable, of course, but Wes has a theory
about men and cowboy boots.
- People say the reason why men wear cowboy boots
is 'cause they like high heels and flashy colors,
you know, and that's why they wear 'em.
- [Rob] And you can get 'em as pretty as you want.
(wolf whistle)
- I carry from, I guess what we would call
entry-level work leathers, pigskins, bull hides,
then I carry casual dress leathers of water buffalo,
French calves, regular calf skins.
I carry kangaroos, ostriches, alligators,
you know, I keep a wide variety of leathers.
I don't do elephant and a couple of other species,
but I've got a good array.
You want a brown, I've got 30 different
shades of brown for you to choose.
- [Rob] When the measuring and choosing
are finished, creation begins.
(country music)
- [Wes] First thing I do is I build the last.
The last comes first.
Everything is centered around the measurements
and the outlook of the foot.
So I build the last first,
see what needs to be done,
see if there's any special patterning processes.
At that point I go through and I pattern the skins,
create the tops, cut 'em out, stitch 'em,
assemble 'em.
There we go.
Then I move on to the insole,
and I create the insole, and I mold it
to the bottom of the foot along the feather line.
I create the channels to stitch it all together.
At that point, the boot is ready to be turned,
and it's ready to be lasted.
I then last the boot,
and start what we call the bottoming process.
We put the welt on.
I put the sole on.
I stack the heels one layer at a time,
little leather stacks, and wood peg 'em.
I use no nails in my process.
Everything is wood pegged.
Then I shine 'em up and send 'em out.
- [Rob] Just about the whole process is done by hand.
Wes says that's the way to do it.
- If you wanna create a boot that lasts
and create a boot that's serviceable,
there's no better way to do it than do it by hand.
When you do somethin' by hand,
I mean they always talk about the love
and the passion of it, but you are concentrated on it,
and you're focusing your energy on making
that the best possible functional footwear
that you can make, as well as creating beauty with it.
- [Rob] All the time and talent that go into these boots
before your feet do means that
Wes's boots are not inexpensive, but--
- The cool thing about what I do is
if you take care of your boot, and your sole wears out,
I can put three soles on there, then the welt wears out.
And I put a new welt on there.
If you take care of your boots,
even though you're walkin' around in the muck,
they'll last you almost a lifetime.
- [Rob] So when you think about it,
these boots are really more than footwear.
- [Wes] I'm creating functional art.
I feel like a cowboy boot should root you to the ground,
yet it should flow up, like a flower, like a plant.
And if you look at most designs,
they're either flora or fauna.
And the goal is to make the person
stand taller, stand prouder.
- [Rob] That's a lot to ask from a pair of boots,
but go ahead and ask.
Wes Shugart's boots are up to that challenge.
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