To Central Asia by Bicycle
A visit to a Georgian village
There are so many interesting things to see today,
that I don't know if we'll reach today's goal.
We're standing still, watching and filming, all the time.
Yes, if we continue like this...
We're halfway already.
We still have about 20 kilometers to go, but it will be steeper now.
It may be uphill, but this is a great road.
We are climbing, but
it's kind of wavy.
A steep part, then more even, like here.
It may even be a bit downhill here, and then up again.
It's 7 more kilometers to the town.
The place where we agreed to meet
we will probably reach in half an hour.
The wind is changable today.
From the front, from the back
from the side.
It depends in which direction we're riding
cause the valley is winding a lot.
Don't be afraid little cow!
How fearful she is.
What colours!
Beautiful.
Amazing.
Such abundant green, new leaves are sprouting everywhere.
In the valley, there are lots of flowers.
Now you don't see it well, but they were there.
There is fog up there.
Down there is such an old bridge
like the ones we showed before, and next to it is a new bridge.
A minute ago we were in this turn.
It made a big bend here
and here the road makes a sharp turn
an then this way. I don't know what's behind the corner
but on the mountain tops, there's quite some snow already.
Let's see what's ahead of us.
A beautiful view. I only shouldn't fall off.
I asked them: the pass is opened.
Opened? Oh, thank you!
Where are you from? - From Poland.
From Poland? The European Union. - Yes.
We're also going there.
Before the Soviet Union, now the European Union.
All the best! - Thanks.
What? - He asked where I'm going.
To the pass, I say.
"But the pass is closed."
And I say, we heard it's open from several people already.
"I'm calling there!"
He took his phone and called somewhere: it's open.
Now the pass is open.
Also for cyclists? - Yes.
You can continue.
Earlier today someone else also stopped
and told the pass is closed.
He didn't even ask where I'm going, if I'm going to the pass.
"But the pass was opened!" - "Oh"
We're at our friend Zaur's place
or actually the friend of my friend Yura.
This is our room.
Quite big.
I woke up an hour ago, I was still watching something on the phone.
Dorenda woke up just now.
If we let them know we got up, we'll probably get breakfast.
That's quite possible.
Dinner yesterday consisted of 10 or so different dishes.
Yes, something like that, and the day before as well.
It's difficult to eat all of it.
Lunch was simple however, only khachapuri.
But there were a lot, more than 10 of them.
But only that.
And it wasn't even the kind of meal when they would sit at the table.
Everyone was eating where he wanted, in the kitchen, in the room
and when he wanted, untill dinner.
It looks like the most important and the longest meal is dinner.
And maybe breakfast, although I don't know what it looked like yesterday.
I also don't know.
It looks like we're home alone
cause there is no car.
Zaur propably went somewhere to get more materials for his home improvement.
This is a shed with tools and firewood.
And down here is the toilet, the outhouse.
Inside the house they already made a new toilet and a shower.
A normal bathroom like we know them.
This is the road to the pass.
Up the valley that way.
The pass is at 2000 meters, and we are now at 1000 meters.
Over there, that's a mosque
cause we are now in Adjara.
Adjara is an autonomous republic inside of Georgia.
There was 3 centuries of Turkish dominance here
and the Turkish told everyone to change their religion.
I don't know the exact proportions at the moment
but it's more or less half Christians, half Muslims.
But apparently there is a tendency for muslims to go back to the Christian faith.
To the Georgian church.
This is a beautiful valley, it's warm.
But there is snow quite closeby.
Shall we go and have breakfast? - Yes. There is bread with cheese.
Zaur is improving his house. They will place a barrel
with water for the bathroom.
And we are going for a walk around the village to see what it looks like.
In this house, we took a shower two days ago.
At night.
Cause Zaur's bathroom is not ready yet.
Here they probably don't have such a barrel, cause the water pressure was very low.
And five minutes later we already got invited
by someone to his house.
50 meters away, for coffee.
Are you studying the alphabet?
And which one is that? - It's that letter.
Some sort of soft "ts" according to the transcription.
Yes, that's the "ts".
Those are different ones.
This is also a national dish.
It's called tolma.
In Arabic there are letters like that.
Today it's Friday
and since this village, as we understood
is an all muslim village
the men will leave for prayer soon.
But we just got some coffee and cake from them.
A lot, because this man had his birthday recently
and there was some left.
So it's good they are leaving for prayer
cause now we can continue.
They asked if we drink coffee.
I said, normally we do. Okay, then come with us.
I didn't mean to day that we wanted to drink coffee right now.
But he told us that if we'll be bored in the evening,
we can visit again, if we stay here.
The hospitality is enormous, right? - It is.
Yesterday I was reading the Lonely Planet guide and it said
that people here consider guests to be a gift from God.
So that's probably why they are all inviting us.
They are trying to find an occasion to show us their hospitality.
They are preparing the tastiest things, and it's all natural.
Home-made cheese...
There is no shop here, so it has to be home-made.
Home-made, fresh, tasty and good.
In Turkey, people were also hospitable
but there, there was a language barrier.
Here at least we can talk with people normally.
But regarding Turkish hospitality
there we were often invited only for tea.
Just tea, with as much sugar as you want
but no cookies or other things.
But we were also invited for a complete meal a couple of times.
For tea, that was mostly along the road
or on a petrol station, or at a cafe.
So that's different. Here they invite us to their homes, cause there is no petrol station.
Maybe there is no electricity because the cables are lying ont he ground.
You'd better not come too close.
On such steep slopes like here they use hand tractors.
It has a motor, but you have to move it forward by hand.
A normal machine wouldn't make it here, it's very steep.
This man says there will be maize here.
It doesn't look like easy work at all.
The houses here are very big, they have many rooms.
And the first one, where we were invited two days ago
was also big, with a big second floor.
There were 6 big rooms there.
And where we're staying now, with Zaur.
This is what they call a small bite.
Look, this is from here.
Red wine.
Good wine. - From Batumi?
Home-made wine.
What tasty things did you eat?
A lot of things.
Bread, salad, beetroots, spaghetti
To your health.
And to yours.
To that what you need, may you have a good life
and God can do that, you understand?
You have a good heart.
Bad ones... If I say something bad, right, then...
Cheers!
I don't understand much of Russian, you know?
Fortunately, we understand each other a bit.
Hello!
That's good chacha, with a lot of alcohol.
How many liters is the most you ever drank?
How many liters? Of what? Wine? - Wine.
One and a half liter I can drink.
12 liter I drank. 12 liter.
On one evening? - Not at once, just...
12 liter. On a wedding.
We were planning to leave this morning
but this is the weather. There are clouds
and it's cold, it's raining a bit.
And if it's raining here, it's snowing at the pass.
It's 1000 meters higher there, and in general the rain made the temperature go down.
We are left alone here.
Zaur left to Batumi an hour ago.
And we are alone here with grandma.
So if there will be guests, I have to cook for them.
Dorenda is the lady of the house, who receives guests.
And I will pour in something if needed.
I will pour and say the toasts.
We are leaving Zaur's house. We're still cleaning up a bit
cause because of the works we were wearing shoes everywhere.
Normally you would take off your shoes and wear slippers or go barefoot.
But because of the works we were keeping on our shoes
and we walked in some sand.
Zaur left to Batumi yesterday.
We are here with grandma , and we'll say goodbye to her in a minute.
I hope she'll understand it.
She speaks only Georgian.
And really only Georgian, she doesn't even understand gestures.
Yes, that's a problem for her.
But she's 90 years old already, so she's elderly.
We left from Batumi, here.
This is Khulo.
And that's the Goderdzi Pass.
2025 meters
We want to cross it today
and then continue in the direction of Akhaltsikhe.
And later to Vardzia, which is somewhere along this road
in the river Kura valley.
Look, it's cloudy, but it's warm.
The wind is coming from sea
and brings in warm air.
But tomorrow it's going to cool down a lot.
Thanks a lot.
See you.
It was nice, we rested well.
But we have to continue, cause there are new adventures waiting for us.
Yes, we should give others a chance to host us as well.
We had a short holiday
but it's time to go. The bikes are loaded and we're leaving!
This is the main road.
We're going that way.
From Zaur's place we had to go down. It was 965 meters there
and here it's 860, so we lost 100 meters.
And we have to climb to 2025.
So it's over 1100 meters uphill.
We already climbed 550 meters.
It's another 600 meters till the pass.
We're taking a break to eat something.
There is quite some snow already in this area.
We crossed a bridge here.
There is a swampy part there and a little landslide.
But they say that further on, the road is fine.
So let's hope we can make it.
It's a quarter to 1 now
so it's quite early.
It's still 10 kilometers till the pass, with a 600-meter climb.
The first 550 meters were fine.
We didn't get very tired.
Curious about the rest of our 8-month bike trip?
Then follow our channel.
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