Howdy, guys and gals! I'm Kyle Broderick; welcome to the Social
Regressive. We are continuing to work on our savage 12FV in 6.5 Creedmoor. The
goal for this rifle is to be able for about $1,000 to end up with a rifle that
can hit targets out at a mile. The parts that you see here on the bench - these are
the ones that are gonna get it done. There are a couple of prerequisites
before today's video, which is going to be about mounting and leveling a scope.
There going to be certain dimensions that you need to figure out so make sure
you get your proper length of pull. That's one video that I'm gonna link to
somewhere around here so you can see how to get your perfect length of pull. It's
actually a really simple process and it's a really short video, but very
important for any rifle that you're going to be shooting. And then we also
have one on base bedding. What we did with this mount is instead of just
torquing it down on top of the the action right here, we did apply some
epoxy on the underside here just to make sure that we were getting full contact
all the way underneath; that this was reliable if we take it off put it back
on and if there is some kind of bend in the receiver, or some kind of difference
between the two sides, that we have taken up that gap and that everything is nice
and flush. Everything is perfectly level and we're not going to be maybe messing
up our scope or anything like that. I don't particularly think this is a huge
issue, but since we are putting together a rifle that we want to be reliable at all kinds
of ranges I think that it is probably a step that you guys want to take. I'll
put a link to that video as well. Now today we're going to need some tools,
some various equipment, and then of course we have the scope itself. This is
one of the most requested scopes - in fact I think it is the most requested scope
that I get in comments down in the the video descriptions or whatever
or out on Facebook - everybody wants to see what the SWFA SS scope can do and
what I think of it so I actually have two SWFA SS scopes that we're going to try
out. This one is the least expensive of all the scopes that I plan to test on
this rifle or here in the near future for 300 bucks you can get
very nice supposedly very reliably tracking scope that has a fixed power so
instead of putting a bunch of money into you know all the various parts that you
need the moving parts little cams and things in order to have a variable power
scope what SW FA has done is they've kind of simplified the whole process
this is probably going to have fewer lenses overall which is a very good
thing and you're gonna end up with a fixed power the 10 power is probably
their most popular model what we have right here is a 12 X they have a 16 and
a 20 and then they have some variable power as well and we will be checking
out an FFP 3 to 15 that they have basically the two scopes are very
similar 42 millimeter objective which is a tad on the small side but it has a
very nice mil quad reticle this should be able to get the job done especially
since this does have quite a bit of travel inside that tube for adjusting
elevation and one thing that I should have mentioned this base right here the
Weaver this is the 20 MOA mount so this is going to give us a
little bit of extra compensation as well we're going to need as much drop is you
know compensation as we can possibly get out in a mile there is quite a bit of
drop with 6.5 Creemore out of that distance so yeah this is a scope that
we'll be using and I did pick up one of the Sun shades right here if you do get
one of the SWF a scopes go ahead and pick one of these up this is going to be
money we're well spent The Sun Shade is gonna save you if it's
in the morning hours or in the evening as it gets towards sunset if you're
shooting kind of into the Sun some of the tools that we'll be using today
we're going to have this torque wrench right here this is a Weaver torque
wrench I do like to make sure that I get my torque just right yes you can use
just the tool that supplied the little allen wrench or Torx wrench that comes
with the scope rings but I do like to get the the numbers precise on here
we're going to use some Loctite of course to make sure that once we get
everything snug down that it doesn't move anymore and then we're going to
need some level devices so I've got a little kind of spirit level device that
I got from Lowe's a long time ago this is actually kind of a piece of junk
it's entirely precise if I turn this around
it gives me a different reading on one side then on the other I really need to
upgrade this but as long as I keep it consistent on one side it's alright
we're going to need a steel ruler for one of the leveling methods that we're
going to use and then I've picked up a handful of these you can get these in
bulk out on Amazon or whatever these are just tiny little kind of bear spirit
levels these are gonna be really useful we can actually like stick these various
places in order to check our camp when we're out shooting and you can also use
these when we're setting up our level here on the rifle now of course we will
need some rings - hold the scope into place so the ones that we were going to
be using are these these are the weaver tactical for hole 30 millimeter these
are Picatinny not Weaver style make sure that whichever one you get if you have a
weaver base get weaver rings we have a Picatinny base so we're using Picatinny
rings these are 30 millimeter for the 30 millimeter tube on here and I wanted to
get these as low as possible you can see right here this is not like an AR where
we have basically you know a big long rail going all the way out toward the
the end of the handguard which you're gonna find out which you're going to
find a lot on ARS this actually has a big drop between where the bail is gonna
be of the scope you know over the barrel here and then up here to the base so I
want as low a ring as I can possibly get and for 25 bucks these get the job done
I've used these on a bunch of different scopes a bunch of different rifles and
I'm a big fan of these Weaver's setting the proper eye relief is pretty simple
but take your time make sure that you get it right first off like I mentioned
make sure that you get your length of pull exactly right
I have this set up at 14 and a half inches which is the maximum length that
you can get from the Boyd's at one if you guys are taller and maybe skinnier
than I am I'm 6 foot 2 if you need something a bit longer than a 14 and a
half inch length of pole they do make a part that you can put in here and you
can get up to I think 15 and a half inches but this right here is set up
really well for me and I have the cheek riser at its highest position I also
have the Rings installed and I've torque these down
into position just the bottom rings that's all I'm gonna need for right now
because I'm gonna be sliding the scope back and forth alright so here's the big
trick whatever kind of shooting you're gonna be doing make sure that when you
check your eye relief on the scope and set its distance fore and aft that you
have a good shooting position so if you have an off hand rifle pick up the rifle
get in a shooting stance look through the scope and see if it's right if it's
prone do like I'm doing so I'm gonna get in a good shooting stance right here get
my hand at the back just like I'm taking a shot okay and what I want to do
actually before I do this is close my eyes I'm not actually gonna look through
the scope at all I'm going to get comfortable as if I'm taking a shot and
then open up my eyes and this cheek riser doesn't get quite high enough for
me I actually need a little bit of a higher rise now this this will do okay I
can just lift up my face just a tiny little bit but here we go okay I'm gonna
get nice and comfy all right pick up just the dad and now I'm going to move
the scope forward and backward until I hit that perfect spot okay and for this
what you want to do is make sure that you're on your highest magnification
this is fixed focal right here this has a are a fixed magnification so it's not
gonna do anything there but yeah as I slide forward and backward I should get
to that perfect spot right don't have any tunneling there aren't any black
areas around the image alright that's looking good now you can see that to
start with I had my scope ring my rear scope ring pushed as far back as it
would go and I know that I'm gonna need that every time I set up a rifle just
because I am a taller guy I have to that really long length of pull I end up
just a little bit further back on the rifle than a lot of folks would so right
about here is looking perfect and now high-tech tool right here I'm just gonna
take a pencil check and make sure that everything is looking good yeah and I'm
going to make a marking on the scope right up against the side of the ring
and that's going to remind me what my eye relief needs to be on this scope
when we go ahead and do the Kant coming up next as you can see I have already
leveled my rifle in the vise so I've got my spirit level right here telling me
that everything is just fine this is going to be my level from now on and I'm
going to try to get the scope to align to this right here so we're gonna get
our horizontal line of the reticle perfectly aligned with that and a lot of
the time with a good scope this flat on the underside of the scope is going to
represent that same level as well so you can use this as long as this lines up
with this then yeah usually that's just gonna be perfect and that's method one
that you can use this is kind of a quick and dirty time to put in the top straps
in the screws I'm going to put just a tiny little dot of blue loctite on the
end of each of these to keep things from walking out and we'll do that all the
way around and what we're gonna do is we're going to not Snug it down I want
to still be able to camp the scope to get that perfect level but I want it to
kind of hold itself in place so if I let go it's not going to fall down or
anything I'm gonna give it just a little bit of tension but not much at all one
thing that I've mentioned in other installs we want to make sure that each
of these is screwed in the same amount we don't want one side pulling down all
the way flush with this right here and then leaving the other side kind of gapi
what we're gonna do is we're going to turn these each down equally so I'm
actually going to back the screw out until I hear that click which means that
the thread have just passed that breakpoint and
then I'm going to turn this in six turns usually works as a good starting point
one two three four five six all right that should be good I'll just do that
all the way around now normally on a tactical scope there's going to be a
good flat section under here and I can just put the steel ruler on the
underside and then twist this until it matches up the level here this one is a
bit tricky because it has that rounded section not working at all so let's just
go ahead to method two moving on to method two all we need is a flashlight a
piece of cardstock and a plumb bob I just took a large nut and hung it from a
black thread and watch this if I shine the flashlight backward through the
scope you'll see that the reticle shows perfectly on that piece of cardstock and
now if I take my plumb bob that looks like it right there and now for the
required 15 pound inches this Weaver torque wrench can go anywhere from I
believe 10 pound inches all the way up to 80 all right we're looking about 15
right there I'm gonna put it slightly on the high side don't try to do these
equally
that's it this is now ready to shoot yes it was a slow process make sure that
everything is torqued down just right okay make sure that if you're supposed
to be 40 or 45 pound inches on your nuts right here that you do that make sure
both of these are perfectly tight make sure that these are down too if you use
these rings these should be 15 pound inches all the way around make sure that
you go over them a second time to make sure nothing's moving I've got Loctite
on all these this is now ready to go out and do a bore sight thanks for watching
the video guys make sure that you like share subscribe hit the notification
bell to see when new videos come out this series is going to have a bunch of
videos in it not just little ones like this we're gonna get out and do some
practical shooting I swear we're gonna get out we're gonna test this at various
ranges we'll try doing some speed shooting we'll try some long-distance
shooting and of course we have that mile coming up thanks a bunch to Patrons of
the Destructive Arts that have made this series possible thank you Sportsman's Guide
at 338 Lapua Magnum and Peter at the 300 Win Mag level you guys are really
keeping things going around here and I'm excited to see where we're gonna go with
some of these new rifles thanks for watching if you like this video be sure
to like share and most importantly subscribe even if you didn't like this
particular content go ahead and subscribe there's probably something
coming that's more up your alley check out this playlist right here this is
going to have videos in a similar vein to what you just watched these two
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