Although I've made many multi-strand projects on this channel, one thing I've
never made is my own multi-strand findings. It took a bit of experimenting
but I figured it out. Stay tuned to see how you can make your own. Hi there, Sandy
here. Welcome to another Friday findings video at keepsakecrafts.net.
So for an upcoming multi strand bracelet I decided I wanted to make my own
findings out of wire, so the first thing I did was I got out some paper and
started drawing them out because I had a picture in my head of how it was going
to work but I had to draw it out to make sure I understood the wire path and just
how it was going to work. I'm not much of a drawer but just a simple sketch on
some scrap printer paper worked and then what I did was I took one of my sketches
and cut it out and I can put this directly on my wire jig to get the pegs
placed properly. And what I have here is the Artistic Wire Jig. I haven't used it
much and I really like using it. It's fun because you can make multiples and
repeat them over and over again, so I'll probably make more than just the two
that I need for this project, I'll make several while I'm at it.
Now this isn't super expensive but it's metal and it's a little bit nicer than
the plastic one that I've used in other videos. So the first thing I did was I
poked a hole in the center one and just found a hole on the jig and poked one of
the pigs through so that's in the center.
What's nice is that this set comes with actually four different size pegs,
there's these big whopping ones, these are great for making ear wires, all kinds
of different things, these ones, and then you have to look closely at
these and you can see that there are two different size of the smaller pegs. So
then I just sort of looked at where my next one would be and just stabbed a peg
through there
and it kind of lifts it up. And oh, alright so we skipped one
here, to put that one there so I'm gonna get rid of the paper now. So it looks
like I'm just skipping one and there's my three, and I'll swap that out with one
that actually matches, and then put one here, yeah here, for the loop that would
attach your attach your hook or your clasp to. And I got out some inexpensive
just some 22 gauge, this is finer than what I'm going to use but you might as
well use something that's easy to manipulate so you can kind of practice
and play and I'll just use it right off the spool. I've got my little picture
here so the idea is that you'll end up with two loops here where the connection
is and then just one loop on each of these sides. So you start with a little
extra tail and I quickly realized if that wasn't going to work. Oh that's
right, I forgot, there's also these little things which are handy dandy, let's get
these out of the way, these just secure your pegs on the back. If you have them
all on a line so you can stick your finger on them, you can do that and flip
it over, otherwise you just have to reach up from the back and pop those on, and if
you put a lot of pressure on them they will pop off but it just helps to have
them there. All right let me start over, I don't know where I was. It's a good idea to
straighten your wire first, more on that in a minute. All right, so back to starting
my loop here, now if I want my loop to go the right way, ah, can you see the problem?
This is not shaped like my little picture and and this might work, actually
you could use this, but this wasn't what I sketched. See, so you have two loops
up here and one around each of those but what I have for these instead of this
shape is a long teardrop loop. That could be an interesting multi strand
finding for sure, you could do something with that definitely, but it wasn't what
I sketched out. So what I realized was I needed to add another peg... oh, this one I
need to throw out because it doesn't fit..bye, bye... and I keep picking it up and being
aggravated by it. There we go, that looks good, just like that for that little bump
out there, and now you see this works much better. Okay, we'll start here but
now I can go around this and then around each of these loops and I'm doing this
very badly, you need to take the time to pull these all nice and tight and make
them fit neatly but what you end up with is something more like this doing it
this way. But I realized that that is way too big, I want my pegs closer together.
Now if you look carefully at the board, if you work at right angles to the edges
of the board the holes are actually going on a diagonal across the board, so
if I want them to be closer together, and yes, I have to turn it because that's
just how my brain works, you can use the pegs this way set them up the exact same
way. So here's one, skip one, put one, skip one, put one, and one here, one here, and
then I think I'll use a slightly larger one up here, and what you end up with
when you wrap on this one is this. And so you can see the difference, this has much
nicer proportions. So if it's not working going at one angle, try going on the
diagonal where the holes are actually spaced more closely together. Now you can
work right off the spool, but with this 20 gauge wire that I'm going to use for
my finished project it's a little stiff for that. So what you can do is make a
guesstimate about how much wire you're going to use. So if I look at this and I
say I think that's going to use maybe ten inches, what I would do is take this
wire and measure it and use a sharpie marker to mark it at maybe,
oh, I'd overestimate a bit, twelve or thirteen inches, and this is a great way
to do it without wasting wire. Here's my wire and my ruler and I'm just going to
mark that at 12 inches. Leave yourself maybe a two inch tail because it's a
whole lot easier to have a little bit to hold on to. and go ahead and wrap. And
I'll show you this more when I do it with the 20 gauge, but it is easier with
this one. You want to keep your wraps right on the board as much as possible.
Of course as you're looping around you have to come up, so take a tool like
these nylon jaw pliers that won't mar your wire. And then see, for each wrap
give it a good tug, and I'm actually going... no, not that way, this way... along the
board parallel to the board you want your tug to be. And then "keep it low" is what I
keep telling myself, keep it right down to the board. Not a good idea to use your
nails all the time, the nylon jaw pliers are much better. So
now I've got that I'm gonna give it a good tug to make that loop nice and
consistent. And another...
And if it starts creeping up, of course that's gonna take up length and make
your things not the right size, so use your tool to press them down, right up
against the board, pull on it nice and firm that way you have nice small, tight,
round loops that are just the size you want them to be.
So although the jig is there you do have to do some of the work and some of the
thinking and take a little bit of care to get things to come out nice,
they won't just automatically. So now I'm gonna trim that pretty close, I'll leave
a little excess. Find my Sharpie mark, there it is, and that's at, oh,
five and a half. That tells me I have six and a half inches of wire here. So I can
use that every time and it's nice because you can cut a piece and
straighten it and not be wasting your good wire. This is definitely a tool that
requires a little bit of practice and patience to get the hang of it but once
you do you'll be churning out whatever findings that you've designed, you can
make them time after time. So let me cut here what was it? What did I I say? Six and a
half inches of wire, it's always a good idea to straighten it. This helps make
sure your piece is strong. We'll do the exact same thing that I just showed you,
but with the heavier gauge wire, that will be our final finished piece.
And because it's heavier gauge wire it's, well, it's heavier, it's harder so use
your tools. I like to use the nylon jaw pliers because they won't mar the wire.
And get a grip on that and really muscle it into place. There we go, see now that
wire is nice and tightly wrapped around that peg and then we'll go back this way,
push it down, and then grab it and when you're pulling on it.. let's see if I can
tilt this a little to show you... you want to pull on it parallel to the board, and
see how that just straightened out right here in between those lines? And now I
can wrap it around that peg and just keep it as low as you possibly can the
whole way through. That sometimes happenss it's no big deal you can just slide it
right back on. That usually happens because you're pulling up and at an
angle rather than parallel to the board. So I really want to get that loop nice
and tight around that peg and then I'll go around the next one,
same thing, pull it nice and tight,
push it down.
Almost done.
Oooh, that's close, cut it a little close there, all right, maybe cut a little bit more
extra next time.
And there, now pop that off. If some pegs come with it that's okay. Now you want to
take your nylon jaw pliers and just squeeze the whole thing to flatten and
even it up and then what you have here are two loops and that will help keep
the thing... Now here I'm not gonna be able to use this one as I've got, I don't have
quite enough wire, so I'll show you on one I already finished. There's two
loops and what you're going to need to do is open each of them and trim that
wire, and it you won't be trimming it at a 90-degree angle to the wire itself,you
want to trim it so that it's perpendicular to this loop of wire that
it's touching so that when you twist it closed it meets with a nice join. And you
want to do that for both of them. I wouldn't recommend hammering this flat
because there's so many twists and crossovers it's just going to be really
hard not to create weak points where ever it crosses over. So I've got just a
sandbag and a bench block and a nylon hammer and between the squeezing with
the nylon jaw pliers and just a little bit of hammering now this is the point
where it'll come apart, you can see I'm pulling on that, you probably can't tell,
pretty hard, and it's hardly coming apart at all. If you need to you can hammer
these side pieces a little bit more. I'm kind of angling this a little
because I'm trying not to hit that crossover point much because it will
make it weak. There now look how much stronger that is, I'm pulling just as
hard as I was. And here you have your multi strand pieces custom-made. You
probably won't have to look for long to be able to tell the first one I made
where I wasn't pulling with a tool. You can see this one is a little different shape,
these holes aren't perfectly round, this loops up here instead of going straight
across. So taking the time to tug on it with a tool and make it really nice and
then finish it with a liver of sulfur patina or whatever you like and you have
your own multi strand finding which you can, of course, change the jig: make it
have more holes, less holes, a bigger loop up here. To make it a chandelier earring
finding, bring these up, see if I can make it do that, alright I can't.
There we go, like this and maybe flip one of these down and wire it to
the other one. Now I'm just kind of creating on the fly here, but you can't,
can't you see the beginnings of a chandelier earring finding there? So I
hope that you'll take these ideas and run with them and create your own jewelry
findings. If you're interested in the supplies I used you can click on the "i"
in the upper right or there's a link in the description box that will bring you
to my blog post with a complete supply list with links to products and more
information. Be sure to subscribe if you haven't already, take a look at my
Patreon page for how you can get bonus video tutorials for yourself and help
support this channel. Thanks for watching, happy creating,
bye bye!
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