Taking the right measurements (Copyright)Svetlana Gerasimova
Good afternoon, dear students
Today we are going to take measurements necessary for creating
a rhythmic gymnastics leotard pattern
This wonderful girl Nika is here to help us today.
To begin with,
lets tie a string or piece of elastic around the girl's waist
which will be used as a starting point for taking all of the vertical measurements.
If you experience any problems in finding the natural waist,
ask a girl to bend to sides. The deepest resulting wrinkle is the waist.
But we dont have that problem with Nika.
So we can easily start straight away.
Height (H)
At the beginning we shall measure the gymnasts height.
There is no need to measure it precisely.
We need it just for a reference.
Nika is 150 cms tall,
so we can move on to other measurements.
Lets take a bust/chest measurement
Chest size (CS)
I place the tape under the girls arms
trying to keep it as horizontal as possible and parallel to the floor.
The fit should be quite tight (sleek fit) but comfortable at the same time.
Our next measurement is the wasit
Waist size (WS)
It is measured as well
with a tight fit at the exact waist location.
Hips size (HS)
Place the tape around the fullest part of the hips and buttocks,
keeping it horizontal.
The tape should be pulled evenly across the body with no slack, but fitting tight.
Neck size (NS)
This measurement is taken differently to the one of a usual garment.
This is needed only for making a stand collar.
If we take the neck measurement in a traditional way, around the base of the neck.
the stand collar will end up being too loose around the gilrs neck.
That is why we are taking this measurement around the smallest part of the neck.
Now we need to take a measurement of the collar height
Collar Height (CH)
The stand collar has to be the right height
so with the head movement back and forwards,
the collar wouldnt bend or wrinkle.
Nika, could you please tilt your head forward slightly.
This way we can take a measurement between this point and the sternal notch.
It is approximately 1,5-2 cms below the chin.
The next one is a very important measurement - back waist length.
Back Waist length (BWL)
Take the measurement from the 7th vertebrae down the center of the back
to the waistline elastic/string.
Back waist length and the crotch length.
define the girth of a leotard
i.e. the physical length of a garment.
Crotch lenght
Crotch length (CL)
This measurement is a bit tricky.
Run a tape measure from front waist through legs/crotch
to back waist.
Sleeve length
Sleeve length (SL)
In our case this measurement is taken a bit differently again.
We shall start measuring the sleeve length not from the end of the shoulder
like in a standard garment,
but from the shoulder knob.
The anatomical position of this bone is situated
vertically and directly above the armpit.
This will allow the leotard shoulder to be short,
ending at the shoulder knob.
What is the reason for that?
If we make a wide shoulder,
its seem will be shifting upwards,
in the direction of the protruding shoulder bone
during gymnast movements.
We have a moving joint in the shoulder.
But this particular part of the shoulder stays still during an arm movements.
So, accordingly, now we can start measuring the sleeve length.
from this protruding shoulder bone.
There is no need to bend the elbow.
as we are working with highly stretchable fabrics.
So we take the measurement of a straight arm.
to the wrist bone.
To provide a sleek, competition fit of the sleeve
we need to take two extra measurements
The first one is the upper arm width (biceps)
The upper arm width (UAW)
In our pattern construction we call this measurement an upper arm width.
and the abreviation for that is
UAW
Upper arm width is measured
in the middle part between the shoulder and the elbow.
Measure the fullest part of the arm with the tight fit.
Wrist size (Wrs)
The wrist circumference is measured easily around either of the wrists, left or right.
The wrist measurement should, as usual in our case, be tight with no slack.
To create a nice line of the panties leg opening ,
we need to mark few points,
which will define
its natural position.
By bending the leg.
at the hip joint,
we can see that the top bending point
is situated around here.
Can you please bend your leg, darling?
Put it down, thank you.
Now we can see that the highest bending point
is located here.
This is the top point of the leg opening.
So this will be called the leg opening top point (LOtp)
In the rhythmic gymnastics regulations it clearly states
that the leotard leg opening should not pass the groin (inguinal fold.)
So let us mark this points position.
Firstly, we measure the vertical position up to the waistline.
The second measurement, which you will write down with a hyphen,
is the horizontal measurement up to the middle
To create a nice curve of the panties back leg opening
we need to find few points, which we shall call the panties back diagonals.
The panties back Diagonals (PBD)
We shall be measuring them from the middle of the back waistline.
Let us take 3 following measurements.
It is convenient when a girl is wearing a tight bodysuit
with a leg opening, resembling the one we need for the future leotard.
Here are the first measurement,
the second measurement
and the third measurements.
Please, write down these 3 measurements using a hyphen.
There are two measurements left.
Skirt front length (SFL)
The skirt front length is measured from the middle of the waist
to the required length.
The skirt back length (SBL)
The same as before, we measure the length from
from the middle of the waist.
But there is one peculiarity.
The skirt needs to cover buttocks.
Sometimes the buttocks are lower than the crotch area.
Thus we have to find where a leg meets the buttock
In our case it is 24-25 cms
It is always better to add an extra centimetre to the measurement
to be on the safe side
and shorten it later if necessary
These measurements are sufficient to make a leotard pattern.
Sometimes you will be asked to sew a
a gymnastics unitard, or leggings to suit a leotard.
For this we shall have to take few additional measurements.
First of all it is a measurement from the waist to the floor
Waist to the floor (WTF)
We measure the length from the elastic to the floor.
Lets take the measurement
Then we need to measure an ankle size.
Ankle size (As)
To do that,we take measure around the narrowest part of the leg.
The last measurement, which is necessary
for making leggings pattern,
is the standard crotch depth.
Crotch Depth. (CD)
This measurement is taken from the elastic
to the chair.
It is recommended to get a girl seated on a hard chair or stool
and measure from the waist vertically down to the chair.
Now I shall thank Nika for her help.
You should try take measurements of your gymnasts
and fill in the chart attached to this lesson.
This is the end of the lesson.
Yes.












For more infomation >> Brisket tacos, smuggled phones, fake meth: Here's how 2 ex-BCSO jailers were busted - Duration: 1:30. 

For more infomation >> Tyler Perry parks blue car outside his studio as reminder of how he overcame homelessness - Duration: 0:38. 

Không có nhận xét nào:
Đăng nhận xét