Do you have an old, neglected fruit tree in your
yard and you're not sure what to do with
it? Well here's the good news, you can
renovate it and start enjoying that
heirloom fruit again, I'll show you how.
Before you begin you'll need to decide
if the tree is worth saving. Does it
produce fruit that you enjoyed using or
would it be better to replace it with
another variety. Does it have a sound
trunk that is free from rot? Is it
plagued by fire blight scab or other
diseases. If you're tree is hollow or
severely diseased renovating it won't
help it live much longer. The major
pruning involved in restoration could
stress it to the point of killing it, or
if successful can result in the now
heavy fruit load breaking unsound
branches. Keeping a disease or insect
infested tree may also be a risk to
nearby healthy trees. If your tree has
serious problems you may want to just
replace it rather than rejuvenate it. If
it's an heirloom variety that you like
you may want to take some cuttings
before taking the tree down and you can
propagate later. The other consideration
is the type of fruit tree that you want
to renovate. Pears and apples can be most
successfully renovated. Cherries peaches
and nectarines are difficult to renovate.
It's typically easier to just replace
them. Whatever kind of tree you're
working on the renovation process will
take three to four years to complete. The
first step is to cut off any dead wood
or branches and this can be done anytime
of year but in the summer it's a little
bit easier see which branches are
dead and which ones are alive.
You also want to cut any suckers off
growing from the bottom of the trunk or
up from the ground. It's almost time to really
get started pruning. The second step
should be done during the winter. Before
you begin reshaping and resizing your
tree step back and assess what you have
to work with and how you want it to look
in a few years, when you're finished with
the restoration. You might want to mark
the branches you want to keep with
weather resistant tags so you won't get
carried away or forget the plan later in
the process. In the first year you will
focus on removing up to one-third of the
branches. Focusing on the branches that
give too much height to the tree and to
branches that are growing downwards or
in towards the trunk. You should also
remove the crossing and rubbing branches.
When pruning for restoration, prune the
branches all the way to their point of
origin, not halfway along the branch.
Remove any water sprouts that have grown
in the upper level of the canopy, lower
water sprouts can be thinned if needed,
but otherwise left alone to become fruit-
bearing branches in a few years. If these
branches are growing upwards use limb
spreaders to train them to grow at a 60
to 90 degree angle. You should also thin
out the smaller branches to increase air
circulation and sunlight within the
canopy. Always select for horizontal or
upward angle branches that are growing
away from the trunk. The best fruit
production will come from branches
younger than 4 years old, so when
deciding between two similar branches
choose the younger. The final thinned
spacing should have about one and a half
to two feet between branches. Never cut
more than one third of the canopy of the
tree. That won't help you renovate any
faster, in fact cutting too much will
actually make the tree re-grow faster
and too much. So here in the first winter
we've controlled the height of the tree
by pruning a lot of the taller branches.
We've cut all the dead branches off.
We're going to continue to prune a
little bit more with crossover branches
and branches growing into the tree but
no more than one-third of the canopy. For
the removal of a very large branch or
very tall branches, you should get the
help of a Certified Arborist. Stay tuned
to next summer's video where we continue
the restoration of this mature fruit
tree and grow organic for life!
you
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