Hi! Some of you have been kind enough to say
that you really find these short master
classes of mine very useful. So today I
thought I'd talk to you about one of the
most important areas of our faces as we
get older and that's our eyebrows. The thing
about eyebrows is that they don't just
frame our eyes, very successfully, but
they also give proportion and symmetry to
our entire face. Now a lot of older
women have very problematic brows. They're
either very faded, over plucked and
in some instances they've disappeared
completely. If I take my eyebrows
away you can see what the effect on my
face is. It has quite a weird
effect. So they are important but you
don't want them to look too heavy, you
don't want them to look ridiculous and
the sort of 'Scouse' brow look
of the younger girls really doesn't work
on an older face. Now when you look at
brows you've got to think in terms of
how wide apart they should be here and
where they need to finish and also
really roughly where the sort of point of the
arc is and you can do all that by
measuring it around your eyes. The width
apart of the eyebrow should be the same
as that width apart of the bottom of
the nose and you can actually measure
this by taking a brush and just
making sure that that's a fairly straight
line. So if the line is doing that or if
it's doing that they're either too wide apart
or too close together. So just have a
look at that again. So that's one way
that you create this proportion and
symmetry. The next is where they end, now
this is where I have a problem so my
brows look reasonably ok without
anything on them but they end here and
actually if I've drawn my line from here,
taking out the corner of my eye,
they should end there so I've got quite
a lot that's missing here. The arc bit,
so again from the base of the nose,
through centre of the eye, the pupil of the
eye, up and you've got the point at which it ought
to start going down,
having gone up. Just in terms of shape as well,
I think that brows look better when they've
got a thickness in this edge and then they
get a little bit narrower and then they
go down to almost disappear into a very
fine point. Now I don't like powder on my
eyebrows because I think it looks a bit
smudgey, I also don't like pencil because
again, if you are not careful,
pencil can look very, very hard. So I came up
with what I think is quite ingenious
which is our Brow Shape. Now it's a very fine
brush and it's got liquid paint in it
and my idea was that we would recreate
our faded, missing and problematic
brows almost like a portrait painter. You
know we're not called makeup artists for
nothing so why don't we actually use the
techniques of art. So I don't know whether you can
see that but I've recreated on the back
of my hand some very, very fine lines
using my brow paint and those fine
lines, similar to the hair that you
get on your brows, means that you
can recreate the effect yourself. So
I've shaken up the brow shape, I always take
the excess off on the back of my hand because
I don't want anything blobby and now I'm just
going to go in here and I'm just going
to start to add what I think I need to
add in order to get a slightly darkened
effect but also to supplement the sort
of missing hairs that I've got because my
eyebrows are actually not that thick. So
I'm just stroking this on using these fine
feathery strokes and building up the
colour and the definition that I think is
appropriate. Takes a bit of practice, it
takes a bit of time but once you get the
hang of it's really not that
difficult.
I hope you understand that I'm using my
computer screen as a mirror and
it's not a very good mirror but I'm doing my best.
So that's that bit, just compare it to that. I'm
going to also use a spoolie
brush in a minute which I've already
used to groom brows. Now we come to
the bit where I think is missing so back
to this, this, this... so I think they should
end somewhere around there, if I make a
little mark, OK.
I wouldn't normally do that but I just
wanted to show you. So I'm now going to fill in this
bit here, the bit that's missing and again
I'm going to do that using my fine, feathery
strokes so that I'm just literally creating
the effect of some brow hair, here we go and
I'm going to keep it going down until I
reach that point there.
OK? So now I think I've more or less finished that
so I'm going to take my spoolie brush
which I groomed my brows
to begin with and I'm now going to just
correct the colour density. The brow shape
only comes in one colour and you might
think "oh well that won't suit me!" but you
can see that I've got hair that's
going grey and I don't have
particularly dark brows so I can get
this to almost exactly the colour that I
need just by using my spoolie after I've
applied it.
I've used this brow shape on women with all
sorts of different coloured eyebrows,
from very pale and in fact to
women who have no eyebrows at all and it
works brilliantly you don't need a lot
of colours you just need to use it
slightly differently depending on the
intensity of colour that you've already
got on your brows. I think that's
done I'm not going to do the other one
because I shall do exactly the same
thing again but there will be a
photograph at
the beginning of the video showing you
both brows done and obviously both
reasonably in balance. So I hope that was
helpful to you and if you've got very,
very untamed brows go and get them
sorted by a professional, go and get them
threaded or tweezed away. I would say always
clear hair from this area here, always
because if you've got eyebrows, if you've
got brow hair that's sort of migrating
down here, you get this very fuzzy, bushy
effect and it doesn't look very nice at
all. So get those tweezed away, always
tweeze out between the brows
as well and don't be afraid of taking brow
hairs out if they're misshapen or if they're
growing in funny directions, mind tend
to grow out like that or you've got some
hooky ones, which I also get - get rid of
them because you know that you've got the
brow shape and what you can do with the
brow shape is replace anything that's
missing. Anyway I hope that was helpful.
Thank you for watching. Bye
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