Fit, fashion, knits: those words describe this
Sewing with Nancy series.
Here to share her fitting techniques that flatter real
figures, and to show knit sewing techniques
is designer Pamela Leggett.
Welcome, Pamela, to Sewing With Nancy.
Hi, Nancy.
It's a pleasure to be here!
I'm real excited to share my knit tips for sewing
a perfect T-shirt.
We'll work with the flattering Tee style that gives the option
of several neckline shapes.
Most importantly, I'll share tips for fitting problems that
are shared by many shapes and sizes.
"Sew a perfect T-shirt."
That's what's coming up next on Sewing with Nancy.
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To make the perfect Tee, you need some great fabric.
We're going to start by showing you the good
and the bad of fabric.
You want to make sure that a knit
fabric is worthy of the time that you put into sewing it.
This fabric, when I stretch it does not go back
to its original shape.
This is definitely one I wouldn't use.
Fabrics that have a little bit of Spandex will pop back
to their original shape.
This is a Ponte knit which is very popular for T-shirts.
It's a heavier weight.
This one would be a lighter weight.
It's called and I-T-Y, and their usually
either a poly and Spandex or rayon and Spandex.
Now, I-T-Y is kind of the new term
for jersey knits or single knits.
As my son would say, "That would be so '90s!"
if we called it single knits.
So, I-T-Y, that's where you go.
Yes, and then also there's some beautiful sweater
knit selections in a variety of weights.
And they all have that tension so you're
going to stretch the crosswise grain.
You're going to have a pattern piece.
Pattern pieces are only three:
front, back, and sleeve.
Plus, we'll show you how to do a great binding technique
around the neckline.
Now, we have to first start with getting the right size.
Choosing too large a pattern is a very common mistake.
Yes, so, you take one measurement.
And instead of measuring the bust area, measure the high bust
under the shoulder blades up against the armhole
and above the bust.
This is going to measure your bone structure
and not the fluff.
Then, we will measure the full bust, which would be
around the fullest part here.
If there is more than a 3" difference, you can opt to use
a front pattern piece that already has the dart in it.
You can see here that this one has holes coming in from the
armhole which just says that this pattern
is asking for a dart.
It's begging for one!
We have two fronts that showcase
exactly what Pamela is talking about.
When you show the difference, I like this explanation
or this demonstration.
What happens when you have a dart added?
You actually are adding more width, but also more length
to go around and over the bust line.
When you have a new pattern that has been
made with a dart, you don't have so many options.
Right.
Or you don't have as many issues.
You want to show them what happens?
Yes, so this is another T-shirt that already has the bust
adjustment built in.
There we go!
You can see now that this right here now doesn't have that pleat
right here in the armhole because it's fitting better.
This dart is a little bit low, and we're going to show you how
to take care of that.
Sure. Very good!
We'll have a couple of fittings during this first go-around so
then you can use your pattern over and over again.
But you may also have some little tweakings to work with.
One of the common ones is the length or the depth
of the armhole.
Yes.
So, for that, you can draw two lines right above
the notch area.
This would be in the
front, the back, and the sleeve area.
You would be adjusting all three of them.
You would cut along the bottom line.
and move it to the top line.
And the reason, just explain this one more time, the reason
for shortening this depth.
Well, if you have an armhole that comes up close to your body
then you have a lot more range of motion.
Sure.
And it feels a lot more comfortable.
Otherwise, you're kind of... you can't--
Move your arms up and down.
Here we have all three pieces:
front, back, and sleeve.
And they have that tuck, taking out that length.
Because knits are a little forgiving, too.
You wouldn't do that same amount on wovens.
No, you wouldn't.
This is for the perfect Tee, right?
Yes.
As we look at the front and back,
through the armhole-area,
it doesn't line up exactly.
Yeah, so you have a little bit of a jog there.
You can use a nice curved ruler.
Line it up in the curve area, and then just move it over.
There we go.
I'm lining it up at the under-arm, at the shoulder
and then, cut that off.
Another two quick alterations would be to change the waist.
Now, I like this pattern shape.
because it has what Pamela calls "essence of waist."
So, it has a little shape in the middle.
rather than going straight up and down.
But, if you need width in that area, easy to change.
Yes, if you are fuller through the waist area,
you can just straighten it out
from hem to armhole and that will give you
almost an extra 4 inches through the waist area.
Do the same on the back piece.
Then this shows, if you would like just a little extra
in the the hip-line.
We've added about one inch on each side.
You'd add this to the front and back.
Pin it to your pattern.
And you'd have some easy modifications.
So, we've chosen fabric
the right-size pattern, plus a few easy pattern changes.
The next step is to mark your fabric and
also add stabilization.
Marking is pretty simple because
there are only very few areas to mark.
Yes, so, marking a dart if you're using the darted front,
would mean just clipping the dart legs right here.
Then, the point of the dart you could mark with
either a pin or some chalk.
Done on the wrong side of the fabric,
it's so simple, fast.
Now, next is stabilization.
Stabilizers, fusibles-- you don't think about that
when you're making a knit top, but there's a reason.
Yes, the fabrics today are much thinner than they used to be.
The fashion industry is trying to convince us that
this is fashionable, and that we all want these thin knits,
but it is very hard to work with the sewing.
Especially when you're putting a binding on
or a finish around the neckline.
You can get kind of a wavy effect,
so we're borrowing tips from "Ready To Wear"
and using stabilizers, a stay tape.
This is woven.
It's very light weight.
Fusible on one side.
This you use for the shoulders.
Yes.
Then, the knit fusible tape is used around the neckline
in both front and back.
Now, we have one cut for the shoulder.
Your just going to put a stabilization in the shoulder
of just one piece.
Either the back or the front.
Obviously, we have the front piece here.
So, you would just want to fuse this down
close to the edge because these are 1/4" seam allowances
for this pattern.
Then, the neck one will bend, so you can just take
the tip of your iron and bend this around.
Then, when you get it on most of the way, you'll be able
to take a press cloth, lay it over, and press it
so it will fuse all the way.
So, the first tip is to work with the tip of the iron
and then give it a firm press with a press cloth.
Here, you can see the shaping.
So, on the back piece, you would add the shaping
around the neckline.
Then, you're ready to do the sewing.
The actual sewing couldn't be easier
when working with a T-top.
We'll show you two options.
Serging, or using your sewing machine.
Pam, serging is really the fastest way.
Yes, and makes a beautiful seam on knits.
You want to first start with a high-quality
polyester cone thread, or you could use
a high-quality regular thread, as well.
I have the machine
set for a 1/4" stitch.
On this machine, the 'M' on the dial indicates a nice 1/4" seam.
The stitch length, I have at 3, which is a great go-to stitch
length for a 1/4" seam allowance.
On the side here, is a differential feed.
I'm going to start by just having it at normal
so that you can see what it would look like
just set in its default position.
Now, you're using four-thread overlock stitch
which is what we recommend.
Yes, most four-thread stitches now have
a great deal of stretch.
When I sew a 1/4" seam I actually want to trim
just a little bit off as I go.
[machine sewing]
Just to make sure that I've caught all of the fabric...
...and trimmed-off any whiskers.
What you'll see is a lot of times the knits will
stretch out of shape, causing elongated seams.
I really don't need any more scallops on my side,
so I want to get rid of that.
That would be done by increasing the
differential feed to a higher number.
As you increase to a higher number, what it does is it
speeds up the front feed dogs
so that the fabric will be feeding
faster into the back feed dogs.
It makes a dramatic difference.
So, we have to do a little testing
from a scrap of fabric.
On most sergers today, differential feed is standard.
Whereas, years ago, it was an option.
You can see how much smoother and flatter that seam is.
Now, pressing is next.
We like to look at pressing as if you would
happen to have the seam kind
of waver a little bit,
have some waviness to it, on the crosswise stretch
of the fabric, if you steam it, you will kind of have--
the fabric will retract, and you'll get rid of
some of that wavering, so...
make sure that you give it a nice steam.
You can pat the seam open, which we'll show
a little bit later in the series,
but steam and knits are friends.
If you have a traditional sewing machine,
we like a wobble stitch,
which we've used so often on Sewing with Nancy.
A 1-width and a 2.5 length.
and it gives built-in stretch.
It's just a great
stitch to use.
With a 1/4" seam, you'll see that I tend to
in working with knits, pin parallel to the seam
so that I can just sew right along.
This would be a long seam in this top.
Not the shoulder seams, but when I get this done,
you'll see that it goes pretty fast.
It has a lot of great stretch to it.
Now on your sewing machine, you may find a knit stitch.
I'd like to call this now a decorative stitch.
It's too much thread
in a seam.
This is kind of one of those you want to use for decoration
but for actual seaming on knits
the wobble stitch is your best choice.
Pamela and I just showed you a lot of serging and sewing
but you just do a little bit of serging or sewing
before you do the first fitting.
Yes, so the first fitting
you would serge the shoulder seams or sew them.
Just pin in the darts, and then you would try this on.
I'm going to try it on this
dress form that has been padded
to look more like a real woman's figure.
With all the fluffs and scallops.
So, you put this on.
Line up the shoulders.
Two things that we want to check here.
We want to see how the shoulder is lining up.
We want the seam to come right at the end of the shoulder bone.
So, if it extends more than 1/4", you would be trimming off
just that little amount there.
Then, the other thing that we want to do is to check
the placement of the dart and see if it is
pointing right to the apex.
And if it's not, we can move this in the fabric
for the first one and change the pattern for the second one.
Pamela's idea to make your master pattern,
doing these first and second fittings so that you have
the same change made on your pattern
as your going to do on your top, comes next.
Yes, so, you take your pattern,
line up the front and back right together.
It only has to match
from the shoulder down to about the notch-area.
You don't have to worry about the rest
of the pattern matching because it won't.
So, I have the front and back
pinned together at these points.
And then...
Pamela is going to fold the fabric
to look like the pattern.
Fold it in half, then fold it again.
Quartering it, and then lining it up.
This is pretty fascinating to me.
I've never thought of doing this in the process.
This is so that you can get the adjustment made
in the fabric and the pattern all at the same time,
and everything is super-accurate.
So, just like the pattern was lined up, I lined up just this
area of the shirt with the pattern underneath.
Because I'm going to move this, Pamela.
I'm doing a little pinning, so that you can see how
this is lined up along this edge.
Then you're going to use a straight edge.
You don't have to worry about anything that's down here.
Just from the notch up.
I like to use this ruler here, and I'm going to just say we're
taking 1/4" off of this shoulder line.
You keep it the same at the notch here, and move it
in the amount you need.
Then, I would just use a rotary cutter, and trim just that area
down to the notch.
You can see you've trimmed your fabric and your pattern
all at once.
At the same time-- great idea!
Now if you have to raise or lower the dart, you can change
the dart point and re-pin it.
But for future reference just kind of mark a box
around the dart-- and we were using this small size--so we'll
continue to cut this out, and then, if you'd like to
lower it by 1/2", you do so at this point.
Lower it, and then you'll have to pin it into place
and straighten out the side seams.
Your adjustments are recorded.
There are three common shapes for Tees, around the neckline.
There's the standard jewel,
as you see in this sweater knit Tee-Top,
as well as a scoop neck,
which I'm wearing and also that you see here with the red top.
Then, the third is a
V-neck, very attractive framing of the
face-type of neckline.
On your pattern piece
often there are different shapes that you can choose from.
This shows the jewel.
Here you can see the scoop neck.
And then, here is the V-neck, with stay stitching
to reinforce that V of the neck.
On the sample, Pamela and I are going to show you how to
add trim, French trim around the neckline.
Pamela has stay stitched in this area.
Pam, we make sure that we clip to that stay stitching line.
Right there.
Yes, don't be a "chicken clipper!"
Yes, I like your little saying there!
You've got to clip right to that stitching.
Now, the French trim that
we have around the edge the dimensions.
The band is cut across the stretch
on the crosswise grain.
2 1/2" by about 1 1/2" less than the finished neckline.
This is a generous 2 1/2 inches, right here.
Yes.
2 1/2 inches and then the circumference is
1 1/2" to 2" less.
Then, we have quartered, after sewing the band into a circle,
we've divided into four parts.
Put pins at each quarter mark, and did the same
with the neckline.
Here we have three of the four quarters lined up.
I'll just match the last quarter.
When you're sewing the V-neck, Pamela will show you that you
stretch open the V-neckline so that you'll be able to sew
continuously around the neckline.
And you have a sample of that.
Yes, so here you can see
where the V-neck has been stretched.
It just sews like any circle or any straight edge
when you straighten it.
No problem.
Now when you stitch this, and
we're working with a stretch needle versus a ballpoint needle
it will work a little bit better
you can have different widths of seams.
Yes, and the width of the seam that you choose
for stitching on the binding
is going to determine the finished width
of the binding because the seam allowance gets pushed towards
the binding, and then wrapped, snuggly, around this area,
pinning it in the ditch.
When you do this around the V-neck...
...like this, it will just straighten out,
just like when you're sewing it.
You want to make sure that there is no airspace in between the
top of the seam allowance and the fold of the binding.
So, you make it snug.
Make it real snug.
While Pamela is finishing doing the pinning, I'm going to show
you a foot that we like to use for the next step.
It's an edge-joining
edge-stitching foot.
You may have something that looks like this
on your sewing machine,
so that the guideline guide of the foot
can go right down the center.
Pamela is going to do stitching in the ditch,
that invisible seaming.
So, that flange will fit right down
into the well of the seam.
It will put the stitching right next to it.
So, you're stitching in the ditch.
Right now, I'm going right along that V-neck,
which just straightens out beautifully.
Nancy's going to show you how to form the V-neck.
After sewing all around the edges, you can trim off the
excess fabric that you have at the neckline
close to the stitching.
The fabric at the center front has been folded.
You can see this little extra extension,
just a tiny little extension.
You sew just within that fold.
When we go over to the finished shirt, you'll see
the little tuck and a perfect finish to the neck line.
♪ ♪
When my guest left her career in Operations Management
several years ago,
she knew that the corporate world wasn't for her.
Looking for a next chapter in life, she took time for
soul-searching and time to sew.
The result of her downtime was a plan to open a creative place
for people to reconnect.
Welcome, Sara Meyer
owner of the Sewcial Lounge.
Sara, thank you for joining us on Sewing with Nancy.
Thank you for having me.
You know, you're a
young career woman who had a masters degree,
in the corporate world, and now you have a sewing shop.
Fabrics, sewing machines and you specialize in
teaching young women to sew.
We do.
What led you this path?
I think that this is a fascinating change
of going off the beaten path.
I had always sewn, and been creative,
and loved doing crafty projects when I was a kid.
When I was in graduate school, and I was also working fulltime,
I really, really got back into sewing.
It was a way for me to not be stressed out,
enjoy something fun,
and be creative at the same time, which I really wasn't
getting through school and work.
So, I got back into it.
I thought, "This is great!"
I would love to have a shop that really
helps beginners get started.
Now, when Sara works with beginners:
you're not working with a lot of beginners.
Right.
That's what I think is interesting
about your Sewcial Lounge,
S-E-W Lounge,
because you work with four at a time.
We do.
All of our classes have a maximum
of four students in them.
Some of our clubs, we do six.
In general, you'll find four people in each class.
Why do people your age and younger and older
mainly come to your store?
I think just for the ease of knowing that
it is a fun inviting environment.
We really want to make sure that people enjoy what they're doing.
We focus more on having fun and getting our projects done.
Speaking of getting projects done
you just brought two of your simple projects
that you have them create in a three-hour class.
This is.
This is our simple tote bag class.
It's one of our most popular.
We complete the bag in three hours.
You mentioned that if they don't complete it then...
they probably never will.
Yeah.
We do try to help them along, and make sure that
they're able to get their project done.
They come back time after time?
They do.
We have customers who have taken our classes
sometimes more than once.
It's a good reason to come back and get a project done
in an afternoon.
You were telling me when we were
getting ready for this interview
that today one of your jobs is to develop a new class.
What criteria do you look for?
We really take customer feedback.
We want to find out what the customers
are interested in doing.
Most of what we're doing is asking them what kind of classes
they would like to see.
You mentioned that you have some friendship-building
that goes on at your Sew-cial Lounge.
We do. Yes.
We have some individuals that
have become friends just from coming to classes together,
and then they plan them.
This is another quick project.
People of all ages make these.
It's interesting that this is what works for you.
Yes.
The zipper pouches are also one of our most popular classes.
People are really intimidated by zippers and so we just help them
make two little zipper pouches in one class.
You know, zippers....
I think it's the name.
It is.
It's just straight stitching, right?
You don't have to be intimidated by that.
So, you made a business out of starting a store from scratch,
and you work full--you're the only employee?
I am. Yes. Wow!
Is it a challenge?
It is a challenge.
I do have two instructors that work for me, also.
But, yes, I do own and operate the store by myself.
It's definitely a challenge, but one I love.
Well, thanks for
stepping up to the plate
and striking out on a business of your own.
I wish you continued success, Sara.
Thank you!
Thanks for being with us.
Thanks for having me.
Thanks for joining us on this first program
of Sew the Perfect Tee.
Pamela Leggett will be back with us next time
to show us how to finish that Tee,
make some changes to a dress-- a classic Tee dress, as well.
If you'd like to see this program again,
see the interview again, with Sara,
you can go to NancyZieman.com.
There are four seasons of TV shows
that you can stream online.
Also, connect with us on social media.
Thanks for joining us. Bye for now.
Pamela Leggett has created a pattern that serves
as a reference for the T-shirt techniques featured
on this program.
The pattern is $13.99 plus shipping and handling.
To order this pattern, call 1-800-336-8373
or visit our website at SewingWithNancy.com/2905.
Order item PAM104.
"Perfect T-Shirt Pattern".
Credit card orders only.
To pay by check or money order, call the number on the screen
for details.
Visit Nancy's website at [www.NancyZieman.com]
to see additional episodes, Nancy's blog, and more.
Sewing with Nancy,
TV's longest airing sewing and quilting program with Nancy Zieman
has been brought to you by
Baby Lock
Madeira Threads
Koala Studios
Clover
Amazing Designs and Klassé Needles.
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